Using your handy trim removal tool, begin in the lower right corner and start separating the door panel from the door frame. Slowly work your way around the bottom and sides, popping off each successive snap until you’re left with the door panel hanging by the top lip.

Before trying to lift and pull off the door panel, disconnect and remove all the connections on the backside of the panel. First, disconnect the courtesy light connector located in the bottom left of the door panel. You’ll have to slightly pull the bottom of the door panel away from the door frame to access the connector. Push down on the tab on the rear of the white connector to disconnect.

Now, in order to remove the door panel, pull it up and straight back off the door frame at the top lip. Make sure not to pull the door panel too far away from the frame – we still need to deal with the latch and lock cables and a couple other connections.

If you look behind the door panel you just pulled off, you’ll see one white and one green Bowden Cable termination. Carefully snap these out of the black housing and maneuver the steel cable ends out of their enclosures.

Finally, unplug the white connector towards the front of the door panel as it is the last connector that is standing in the way of removing the door panel completely from the door frame.

With now having the door frame exposed, we can easily find the mirror connector – just follow the wire that’s coming out of the mirror and routing down to the white connector at the top right side of the door. Remove the connector and any tape holding the cable in place.

Next, unbolt the mirror assembly by removing the three 10mm nuts that were exposed in Step 1. Carefully push back the plastic tab that’s still holding the mirror in place and pull the whole assembly out, cable and all.

Set the driver side mirror to the side and follow Steps 1-3 for the passenger side mirror as well.

This is a tricky step.

To fully disassemble the mirror, there are some narrow openings that the cable and connectors will need to travel through. The only way this can be accomplished is by separating the two small connectors from their outer enclosure.

Grab a small flat head screwdriver and look closely at the full connector, you’ll notice four captive barbs on the external sides and between the two internal connectors. These need to be pushed in to release the internal connectors from the outer enclosure. Side note, depending on your year or trim model truck, your connector can be different than the one in the picture. However, there is a way to remove yours as well. Just look for similar tabs. If you need assistance, you can call us.

Again, be careful that you do not damage this outer enclosure in the process as it will be needed to reassemble the two smaller connectors towards the end of this mod.

Next, peel off the rubber isolator from the mirror assembly, and slip the cable through it. Make note of how the mirror cable is routed behind the rubber isolator. Set this aside for the end.

Using the trim removal tool, carefully pry open the lower mirror arm cover. It’s a handful of snap fits, so be careful not to break any.

Bring out your needle nose pliers for this step. The metal clip here is keeping the mirror spring-loaded in open and closed detents.

With the addition of the motor, this becomes unnecessary, so we can get rid of it. Insert the tips of the needle-nose pliers into the two opposing holes on the spring clip.

Keeping some force on the pliers to keep the tips inserted, give the whole thing a firm twist. This should align the slots on the spring clip with tabs on the center shaft and it should pop right off.

At this point, you can also remove the spring and plastic washer that was being held down by the spring clip.

In order to remove the cosmetic cover, first pop off these three clips from the mirror plate side.

Once they’re off, you can push the cosmetic cover off by poking your fingers through the internal cutouts. There are a few more inaccessible snap fits that you should be able to overcome with some finagling.

Remove the two noted screws and you should be able to pull off the lower cover. There are some snap-fits around the sides and bottom edge, but gentle persuasion should release the cover.

Using the trim removal tool, gently lift the mirror plate out of the housing. It may feel like you’re about to break something, but the mirror plate should pop right out if you continue pulling up.

Before you fully remove it, disconnect the two-pin connector for the mirror defroster.

There’s no latch for this connector, so it may take some force to pull it off due to the snug fit.

Looking at the assembly from the mirror side again, locate these two clips behind the signal light.

Pull each one out and away from the inner bracket to release the light module.

Remove these five screws holding the arm bracket in place, and remove the bracket. The kit that we’re installing comes with replacement arm connection brackets with integrated motor and gearbox that we’ll swap in.

Before assembling the new bracket, you can disgard the old arm connection bracket, spring, and washers as they’re unnecessary for our actual assembly.

We’ll be reusing the original mirror assembly screws that we removed in Step 7.

Now we can swap in the new arm bracket. The fit should be identical to the original arm bracket, so follow what you did in Step 7, except backward.

Put back all the screws you previously removed. Tidy the wires up (including the two new wires from the motor) and route them back through the hole in the new arm bracket.

Both outer covers can be assembled at this time – just follow the steps you took previously, except backward.

Using the supplied screws and washers (three per mirror), mount the mirror assembly to the mirror arm. Make sure that you position the mirror in the unfolded state when screwing the mirror to the arm. You can now route the cable along with the wire guides and out the mounting face. Finish up by re-attaching the lower arm cover and rubber isolator. Hope you noted how to route the wires behind it! In case you didn’t, send the wires around the inner perimeter to the center opening so they can exit out the inner hole of the rubber isolator.

Now, if you didn't do both mirrors at the same time, grab the other mirror at this time and follow Steps 1-8 for the other side. We’re finally done with the mirrors!

Let’s reattach them to the vehicle with the three original 10mm nuts. Make sure the wires are cleanly pulled through to the inner side of the door. Be careful not to lose your 10mm nuts in between the door panels because they will be lost for good.

Now that we’re done pulling the cable through tight gaps, we can reassemble the two inner connectors into the outer housing and plug it back into the mirror receptacle. The power wires from the motor remain free.

After tidying up the wires, put the kick panel and both door cards back on. Remember to plug in all connectors (window controls, courtesy lights, latch/lock Bowden cable terminations) and check that all snap fits are properly engaged.

You will need to connect the main wire harness to the switch itself and then the factory connector will directly re-connect to the provided folding mirror harness. Run the red wire down to your in-dash fuse panel where you can plug it in to your choice of constant power source. We have provided a picture of examples for fuses that may be constant in your truck. We recommend that you use a volt meter to test the one you choose to make sure it receives 12V power all the time.

Now all you need to do is test your new setup!

Enjoy your New Power Folding Mirrors!