PARTS INCLUDED: 1 x Automatic Control Box 2 x Connection Plate 2 x Power Fold Actuator 2 x Actuator Wire Harness 1 x Adjust & Fold Switch 1 x Adjust & Fold Switch Harness
2 x Extension Wire Harness - Driver Side (Shorter) / Passenger Side (Longer)
ADDITIONAL PACKAGE CONTENTS INCLUDED: 1 x Hardware Bag 1 x 3M, Double-Sided Adhesive Sheet
1 x Tool, Trim Removal
TOOLS NOT INCLUDED BUT ARE NEEDED: Installation Instructions - Power Folding Mirrors (Located on Website) 1 x 1/2-in Socket (10 mm) 1 x 1/2-in Drive Ratchet 1 x 1/4-in Phillips Screwdriver 1 x T15 Torx Screwdriver 1 x 6-in C-Clamp 1 x Tool, Rotary Dremel 1 x 1/8-in Flat Head Screwdriver (optional) 1 x Fish Tape Wire Puller (optional) Electrical Tape (optional) Zip Ties (optional)
Door Panel Remover (optional)
DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE YOU BEGIN INSTALLATION
Using your handy trim removal tool, begin in the lower right corner and start separating the door panel from the door frame. Slowly work your way around the bottom and sides, popping off each successive snap until you’re left with the door panel hanging by the top lip.
Before trying to lift and pull off the door panel, disconnect and remove all the connections on the backside of the panel. First, disconnect the master window switch connector located under the window switch that you will need to remove from the door panel. You’ll have to slightly pull the bottom of the switch panel away from the door panel to access the connector. Push down on the tab on the side of the white connector to disconnect.
Now, in order to remove the door panel, pull it up and straight back off the door frame at the top lip. Make sure not to pull the door panel too far away from the frame – we still need to deal with the latch and lock cables.
If you look behind the door panel you just pulled off, you’ll see one white and one green Bowden Cable termination. Carefully snap these out of the black housing and maneuver the steel cable ends out of their enclosures. If you should see anymore white connectors that may be connected to your door panel, this is the time to unplug them as they may be the last connections standing in the way of removing the door panel completely from the door frame.
Finally, at this time look around your door frame and make sure all of your white fasteners were removed with the door panel. If there are some still in the door, remove them and reinstall the missing fasteners back in your door panel for later.
With now having the door frame exposed, we can easily find the mirror connector – just follow the wire that’s coming out of the mirror and routing down to the white connector at the top right side of the door. Remove the connector and any tape holding the cable in place.
Next, unbolt the mirror assembly by removing the three 10mm nuts that were exposed in Step 1. Carefully push back the black plastic tab that’s still holding the mirror in place and pull the whole assembly out, cable and all.
Set the driver side mirror to the side and follow Steps 1-3 for the passenger side mirror as well.
This is a tricky step.
In order to remove your glass mirror from your assembly, depending on your OEM Mirror, you may need to grab your trim removal tool and put it on the bottom portion of the mirror and lift up. Some models you will need to just reach in on the top of the glass and pull it out.
Now, grab a small flat head screw driver and look closely at the full connector, you’ll notice a small tab that is holding the mirror on the back. This needs to be pulled up to release the connector.
Last part of disassembling the glass, be careful that you do not damage the back side of your mirror in the process as sometimes it can be difficult to disconnect the two-pin connector for the mirror defroster away from the upper right corner. If you would like to mark the top wire with some tape for reassembly, now is the time to do so as both of these wires are black. It will make reassembly much easier in the end rather than trying to remember which one went where.
Next, using a T15 Torx Screwdriver, remove the 4 screws that are securing the directional actuator motor to the inner connection plate. Again, as you disassemble these parts, make notes if you need to for later. Set these parts aside for the end.
Continuing to use a T15 Torx Screwdriver, remove the 2 screws that are securing the connection plate to the mirror housing. Set all hardware that you remove to the side for future reinstallation. Now you can remove the rubber isolator to reveal the white connector and wires that are held in by a black grommet. Start with lifting the tab on the top of the white connector to release it from the metal clip. Directly following that, you may be able to just pull the grommet outward, but if not, use a small flathead screwdriver to get underneath and lift up. This now releases the wire harness.
Using the trim removal tool, carefully pry open the lower mirror arm cover. It’s a handful of snap fits, so be careful not to break any. Once this is removed, you will be able to grab the wiring harness and slowly pull it through the hinge and all the way out of the mirror housing completely.
Using the trim removal tool, carefully pry open the mirror housing from the connection arm. It’s a handful of snap fits, so be careful not to break any. Remove completely and set to the side.
Bring out your dremel or your choice of tool for this next step. You will need something that can cut into the metal clip that is keeping the mirror spring-loaded in open and closed detents. BE CAREFUL with this step as the spring metal clip can go flying once it is released from the spring. It is recommended to wear eye protection.
The only part you will want to keep is the white plastic washer spring holder that is located under the metal clip you just released. This clip isn't necessarily needed for reinstallation but it is nice to have in order to center the new spring on the hinge.
With the addition of the motor, at this point, you can also remove the spring.
Remove the old connection arm plate and replace it with the new connection arm plate with motor. Here you will also use the new hardware to compress the spring back into place.
Reminder: If you kept the white plastic washer, this is where you will want to reinstall it on the new hinge that you see below.
Lastly, compressing the spring back into place can be tricky but be patient. You can use a C-Clamp or anything you may have of similiar like. Once you have all the new hardware in place, your new connection plate arm will be held in place.
Tidy the wires up (including the two new wires from the motor) and route them back through the hole in the new arm bracket.
All screws can be added at this – just follow the steps you took previously, except backward.
Now, if you didn't do both mirrors at the same time, grab the other mirror at this time and follow Steps 1-8 for the other side. We’re finally done with the mirrors!
Let’s re-attach them to the vehicle with the three original 10mm nuts. Make sure the wires are cleanly pulled through to the inner side of the door. Be careful not to lose your 10mm nuts in between the door panels because they will be lost for good.
Now that we’re done pulling the cable through tight gaps, we can reassemble the two inner connectors into the outer housing and plug it back into the mirror receptacle. The power wires from the motor remain free.
Go ahead and tidy up the wires on the driver door, put the speaker, kick panel and both door cards back on. Remember to plug in all connectors (window controls, speakers, latch/lock Bowden cable terminations) and check that all snap fits are properly engaged.
You will have one fuse that will need to plug into your choice of constant 12V power source under your dash. The rest of the wire harness is 100% plug-n-play.
Once you run the wire harnes across the cab and repeat the process that you just completed on the driver side door to the passenger door, you are done with the install.